Backpacking solo in Vietnam & Cambodia

On the 22nd of August 2013, I packed my bags and got on a plane from Cape Town, South Africa, to Vietnam and Cambodia.  All I had with me was my backpack, my phone, camera and the Lonely Planet for Vietnam and Lonely Planet for Cambodia.  I had no accommodation booked upon my arrival in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and relied on finding accommodation by the use of my Lonely Planet (which was very fruitful).  I landed in Ho Chi Minh City on the eve of the 23rd of August and made my way to a hotel and had to extend my stay in this beautiful city due to my backpack with all my clothes which stayed behind in Doha.  Having been in Vietnam and Ho Chi Minh City before, I felt right at home and knew my way around.

I found a hotel quite easily after negotiating my taxi fares at the airport and had a good night’s sleep.  The following day was spent in Ho Chi Minh City, which is most definitely one of my favourite cities.  I visited all the different parks, The Ben Tanh Market and the War Remnants Museum.  It was a day packed with sight seeing and taking photographs of everything and everyone.

After Ho Chi Minh City I caught a bus to Vinh Long, a little town on the Mekong Delta.  I was surprised at how small this town really is and was astonished by the fresh food market which is right on the river.  You can get any fresh food from the market, from fruit to vegetables, meat, fish and all kinds of other weird and wonderful things.  I walked around this little town exploring all the streets and allies and people here seemed to be surprised by seeing westerners and they were very friendly and eager to help me wherever I went.

After Vinh Long, I needed to get to Rach Gia so that I could catch a ferry to the Phu Quoc Island and in order to do that I needed to catch a bus from Vinh Long to Rach Gia (or so I thought, but me being a naive and unknowledgable traveller got that all wrong).  I had to travel 203km’s to get from Vinh Long to Rach Gia in order to catch the 13:00 ferry to the Phu Quoc Island.  So I thought if I leave Vinh Long at 7am that I had ample time to catch a bus to Rach Gia and be on time for the 1pm ferry, once again BIG mistake, but what a journey I had that day.  I left my hotel room at 7am and walked to the bus station which was about 5 minutes’ walk from my hotel.  I managed to buy a bus ticket and to get on the first bus leaving Vinh Long to Can Tho (I had to go to that town first in order to get another bus there).  So I’m on the bus to Can Tho, also a beautiful city on the Mekong Delta.  As we get to the bus station I get off the bus and start looking at buying a bus ticket from Can Tho to Rach Gia, but was told that I’m at the wrong bus station and that I needed to get to a bus station on the other end of the city.  So there two guys tell me to get on a scooter and that he will take me, so I blindly trusted the locals and got on this scooter and thank goodness I did as that bus station was at the opposite end of the city.  As we got to that bus station the scooter driver puts me on a bus which once again I thought is going to Rach Gia and not knowing any better, I got on, put my earphones in listened to music and enjoyed the scenery as we’re driving into Vietnam somewhere.  So here I am on this bus, which I thought is taking me to Rach Gia, when all of a sudden this bus stops in the middle of nowhere and tells me to get off and into this minibus.  I then start to worry whether I am actually going where I needed to go and not to some other little town.  So I kept asking all the locals and they confirmed that I am going to Rach Gia.  As I stand by this minibus on which I had to get, I looked in and realised that there is no space, not even for a mouse and the driver kept telling me that I must get in as there is more than enough space.  I eventually got into the front with another Vietnamese and as I looked back in this minibus, all I could see was loads of Vietnamese heads bobbing around as we were driving.  Surprisingly we stopped along the way and picked up so many more passengers and I kept wondering where they will sit.  Then I saw that they had little plastic chairs which they unpacked and people sat on those between the other passengers’ legs.  Now that is what I call innovation and how to optimally make use of space in a minibus.  So after this minibus got to Rach Gia, I had to catch another scooter to get to the ferry but unfortunately by the time I got to the ferry it was 2pm and I missed it.  I then decided to stay in Rach Gia for the night.

Rach Gia is also a very beautiful little town in Vietnam and is one of two towns from which you can catch a ferry to Phu Quoc Island.  I had a wonderful time walking around in Rach Gia, exploring and taking photos of the rivers and the people.  People in Rach Gia was just a friendly and all the school kids waved at me and wanted to me to take photos of them.  I met this little girl who was absolutely amazed by my camera.  She asked me to take photos of everything and then to show her on the LCD screen and was astonished at what she saw.  I took pictures of her and she just loved every moment of it.  It is so special to meet people who have such an appreciation for something which we tend to take for granted.  Rach Gia is a very busy town and there are scooters every where you look.

Finally, on my way to Phu Quoc Island just off the coast of Vietnam and Cambodia.  I was so excited to go to this Island and to live the island life and lie on a beach sipping on some cocktails.  The ferry which leave from Rach Gia to Phu Quoc island takes about 2 and a half hours and is very organised.

Phu Quoc island is lovely with so many extremes and differences in the different beaches on the different sides of the island.  Once I got to my hotel, I rented a scooter and ventured out to explore this beautiful island which offers beaches and warm seas on the one side and beautiful forests on the other.  Sao Beach was my favourite beach by far on the island.  With blue water, white sand and just so serene, definitely one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve been at.  I stayed close to the main town on the Island, Duong Dong and enjoyed the night market with all their fresh food.  Phu Quoc island is perfect if you would like to get away from the busy life and just lie on the beach and relax.  Perfect get away from everything and to read your book while taking in the beauty the island has to offer.  There are peppercorn farms as well as a beautiful waterfall, should you want a day of sight seeing.

After Phu Quoc Island, I ventured into Cambodia and went to Sihanoukville, which is also a beach town.  I stayed in the backpackers strip on Serendipity street which leads to Serendipity Beach, which is vibey and full of tourists.  There are an abundance of restaurants and bars on this beach and what a perfect way to spend your day, by lying on a beach chair, sipping on beers/ cocktails and having something light to eat while swimming in the sea and reading a book.  From Sihanoukville, you can see islands all around and there are many island hopping tours available.  The most famous island to visit is Koh Rong with daily boats leaving to Koh Rong and returning to Sihanoukville.  You will also find the most beautiful beach if you leave Sihanoukville and follow the signs to Otres Beach.  What a beautiful and serene beach.  You are closer to the islands and the views are amazing and it’s quieter than the busy Serendipity Beach, so this is perfect if you would like to get away from the buzzing and busy beach.  Otres Beach also has nice restaurants on the beach so nothing is stopping you from sipping on cocktails while enjoying the amazing view and sunset.

From Sihanoukville, I caught a night bus to Battambang which is a little town in Cambodia surrounded by hilltops and rice paddies.  Once in Battambang, I arranged a Tuk-tuk for the day.  This was great as the driver took me to all the sight seeing things in and around Battambang.  He showed me the statue of the person after whom the town was named and told me all about the history of the town.  Then he took me to see the Bamboo Train which is still in working condition and for $10  you can go on the Bamboo Train.  After visiting the Bamboo Train I was taken to view the river, fishing village on the river as well as one of the older Temples which didn’t seem to be open any more.  After that, I was taken to the Killing Caves.  The Killing Caves are situated on one of the hill tops.  There are multiple temples and killing caves with the most beautiful view of Battambang.  This is quite a walk and in the heat, I worked up quite a sweat, but it was well worth it.  I paid a girl $1 and she took me on a guided tour of the killing caves, all the temples and showed me all the views.  Battambang also has a lovely market in which I was walking around and you can buy anything from scarves, to suitcases to fresh food and fruit at the market.

I left Battambang the next day on a boat to Siem Reap on one of the rivers of the Mekong Delta.  This was definitely one of the most beautiful boat trips.  We went through so many fishing villages on the river and meandered through narrow canals on the river.  This trip took about 6 hours, but was well worth it if you would like to get off the road and have a different traveling experience.

Once I arrived in Siem Reap, I battled to find a hotel with available rooms due to the influx of tourists in Siem Reap who all made their way there to visit the amazing Angkor Temples.  Siem Reap is definitely a geared as a tourist destination and caters for everything a tourist might need or want.  From local food, to western food, to having loads of little bars and pubs and markets everywhere.  At night, Siem Reap has such an amazing atmosphere that you’ll want to stay in town the whole night.  I was in Siem Reap for 3 days of which 2 days were spent at the amazing Angkor Temples.  I arranged with a Tuk-Tuk driver to pick me up from my hotel and to take me to all the different temples and we planned a two day route and temple visits.

On the first day to visit the Angkor Temples, I was picked up at 5am in order for me to view the sunrise from the amazing and astonishing Angkor Wat.  So many people go there early morning to view this breathtaking sunrise.  Upon arriving at the Angkor Wat, I got goosebumps at the majesty of it all and to think that humans built those temples in 1600.  It was definitely worthwhile to get up at 4am to see that amazing sunrise.  I visited a lot of temples on day one and every temple amazed me and left me standing there and just admiring the majesty of the temples.  There are plenty of tourists who visit the temples, so ensure that you get there before the big crowds so that you can have some of the temples all to yourself.  At all the temples they are selling gifts, clothes, cold drinks and food so should you need anything, you do not have to rush back to your hotel.

On the second day to the temples, we started a little bit later.  I started at Angkor Wat as that is the biggest and most popular temple.  It really is amazing and I spent about 3 hours walking through Angkor Wat and taking pictures of everything.  The detail on all the temples are amazing and the meaning behind all the carvings are astonishing.  I was at the temples for most of the day and met a lot of tourists from all over the world.  After my visit to the temples, which is quite warm and humid and you walk a lot so you will be very tired, full of sweat and dirt, I went to the hotel for a nice swim.  I spent some time in the night markets after dinner and admiring the town and enjoying the atmosphere at night.

From Siem Reap I moved on to Phnom Penh, which was my last stop in Cambodia before getting on a plane back home to Cape Town, South Africa.  I traveled from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh by bus.  We left 8am in Siem Reap and got to Phnom Penh at about 1:30pm.  I booked into a lovely hotel that afternoon, had lunch had a nice warm shower and from there made my way through the city to the Russian Market.  It was amazing to walk around this city and to take photos of all the interesting things and people I saw.  I absolutely loved the Russian Market and loved walking there from my hotel and not having to take scooters or tuk-tuk’s the whole time.  At the Russian Market you can negotiate prices on everything and anything.  You will find anything from clothes, to shoes, to food, to watches, dvd’s, jewelry and souvenirs.

On my second day in Phnom Penh I rented a bicycle and cycled to the Killing Fields just out side of the city.  The Killing Fields are a must for any tourist visiting Phnom Penh.  You pay $6 for entrance and they provide you with a headset and recorder along with a map with information about the recordings on the recorder.  There a clearly marked areas where you need to listen to the recordings on the recorder explaining everything that happened there and in Cambodia during the time when Paul Pots took over.  It truly is an eye opening experience into the genocide they experienced during the take over and rule of Paul Pots.  Paul Pots ordered the murder of over 2 million people in Cambodia and they killed everyone, from babies to mothers, children and fathers.  During the visit to the Killing Fields you will see the mass graves and areas where people were killed.  It truly makes you thankful for the life you have and for not having to go through anything like that.  Upon leaving the Killing Fields and spending the morning there, I decided to go to the Central Market for some lunch and shopping.  The Central Market is a lot bigger than the Russian Market, but it’s more difficult to negotiate on prices at the Central Market and you will find more bargains at the Russian Market.  After that I cycled around and took pictures of statues which you’ll find all over the city as well as some temples and parks.

On the third day in Phnom Penh, I went to the Royal Palace where I also saw the Silver Pagoda.  Always remember when visiting temples, pagoda’s or palaces that you have to cover your shoulders and upper legs.  It is truly worth while to visit the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda even though you cannot go into the Silver Pagoda, you can get close enough to look through the doors and windows at the inside which is beautiful.  After that I visited the National Museum, which tells you about the history of all the temples and statues and they have it all on display.  Unfortunately they don’t allow you to take photos of all the statues and things in the Museum.

Phnom Penh is a very lively city and there truly are a lot more to do and see than what I managed to do and see in the 3 days I was there.  There are plenty of places to shop and to eat and have sun downers on the edge of the river.  Phnom Penh was the last city I visited on my trip to Vietnam and Cambodia and it was truly an amazing experience and holiday, one that I will remember for a very long time.  I met awesome people on my travels and truly had some amazing adventures and experiences.

 

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Magical Bali

We went backpacking through Bali, Indonesia last year, middle April to beginning May. The weather is great that time as it’s not quite in the middle of their summer yet and not yet full on in season so it’s not as busy as it is during June and July.  You will also miss the tropical rains which ends at about end March beginning April.  With temperatures of 35 degrees celsius and very humid, it’s good to stay somewhere with a pool and air-conditioner in the room.  This time round we took along backpacks and surfboards.

We arrived in Kuta, Bali where we caught a taxi to a local hotel not too far from Kuta beach.  If you have a love for surfing or would like to start, Bali is the perfect place to learn.  They have surf boards to rent at every beach and give surfing lessons to the newbie surfers.  There are experienced surfers on all the reefs and when the waves are not that great for surfing you’ll see quite a lot of people out paddling on SUP’s.  We started in Kuta, went to Balangan, Ccangu, Nusa Lembongan and Ubud.  I am not a surfer and have tried to surf a little bit in Cape Town before going to Bali.  But once in Kuta and seeing everyone out in the water on their boards, I thought that I would give surfing a go, needless to say I just rediscovered that I am not a surfer at all and should rather just stick to cycling.  I went into the water all brave and full of hope, but came out with a bruised arm, split open top and bottom lips and a bloody nose.

Bali can definitely be seen as one of the surfing capitals of the world, with an abundance of surf shops and loads of good waves.  For the none surfers who might want a good cup of coffee, you can rest assured, as there are Starbucks in just about every town in Bali.  There is such a great variety, from big waves to beautiful rice paddies and volcano’s.  There really is just so much to see and do in Bali.

Kuta

Definitely the party and shopping capital of Bali.  There is plenty of surf shops around every corner and in every street there are street vendors selling towels, dresses, shoes, toys and almost anything and everything you can think about.  Always negotiate with them as they tend to sell things to you at an inflated price as you are a tourist and they see you as being rich and they also just assume that you are Australian just because you are Caucasian.

Should you be looking for a place to party and let your hair down, then Kuta is the city for you.  With parties going on all night, Kuta will keep you well entertained with loads of tourists having fun dancing and drinking the night away.  Once you have had your share of partying in Kuta, move along to the smaller towns where you’d be able to relax and still meet other tourists (mostly surfers) and have some sun downers on the beach while watching the most beautiful sunsets.

ImageOn his way with a balloon delivery – also travel with most of their things on a scooter

ImageGong Corner Restaurant is situated in an alley in Kuta.  They serve traditional Balinese cuisine and are very reasonable with their prices.  We ate here at least once per day as the food is good, portions are big and you definitely get more than you paid for.

ImageGrafiti on one of the walls in an alley, Kuta

Balangan

So calm and quiet.  We stayed at The Bungalows in Balangan.  It had a pool with a very nice little restaurant where they have the most define banana fritters.  I could eat banana fritters for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  There are quite a lot of bigger bungalows which you can share with friends if you are a group of 4.  But do not worry as they have loads of rooms built on at the back of the bungalows which are just as lovely with aircons and roof fans.  The Bungalows are situated on the top of the cliff overlooking the beach; and what a beautiful view with some beautiful sunsets.  On the beach there are also some backpacker hostels which was packed full of surfers.  If they were not surfing they were on the beach having some Bintangs and playing volleyball.  Other than the surfers will also find random dogs on the beach along with some naked local kids enjoying the warm sea.

ImageLocal Balinese children having a swim

ImageLocal dog at our hotel – The Bungalows

ImageSome surfers and guys paddling on SUP’s.  Seems like SUP’s are becoming quite a thing to do when the waves are not that big.

ImageFast asleep after having a Bintang

ImageLocals having a wash and bath in the sea

 Ccangu

A small little coastal town just outside Kuta where surfers will find awesome reef breaks.  There are some nice restaurants on the beach where you can sit and watch the surfers catching some waves and even being barrelled.

ImageTropical Ccangu

Nusa Lembongan

What a beautiful seaweed farming island.  This island is not that far from Kuta, but you can only get to the island by way of speed boat or ferry.  The speedboat trip is about an hour, but is double the price of the ferry so if you’re not on a tight budget then I would recommend a speedboat.  The ferry trip takes approximately 2 to 3 hours.  There are a lot of lovely hotels and resorts on the island so if you plan on going there on honeymoon, I would definitely recommend that.  You have options between Mushroom bay and Dream Beach, both equally beautiful, but Dream Beach seems to be a bit more secluded.

It is a small island and if you hire a scooter you can venture through the whole island in one afternoon.  Nusa Lembongan is also quite popular for scuba diving and snorkelling, so if you’re a fan of scuba diving and snorkelling, make sure you book a scuba diving and snorkelling trip as there are loads of reef and fish to see.

When it’s high tide you’ll see loads of boats on the sea and as soon as the tide drops, all you’ll see is seaweed farms with boats stuck on the land where the sea was on high tide.  The seaweed farmers work whenever it’s low tide, so whether low tide is during the day or at 10pm, you will hear them walking to their farms and collecting seaweed.  It’s a very productive and hardworking little town full of culture and history.  Definitely a must when in Bali.

The surfers love going to Nusa Lembongan and you’ll hear them talk about Shipwrecks and Playgrounds.  I am not a surfer at all, but it is recommended that only experienced surfers should attempt surfing Shipwrecks and beginner to intermediate surfers should go to Playgrounds.  Playgrounds have loads of fun waves which is also a reef break but not nearly as big as Shipwrecks.

ImageSeaweed farmer houses on the beach

ImageSeaweed farmer sitting on a little piece of his seaweed farm

ImageCarrying seaweed out to dry – women helping the men

ImageSeaweed farmer on his way to farm some seaweed

ImageOne of the most beautiful sunsets in Bali

ImageLocal children playing around by the seaweed farms in between the boats which are stuck due to low tide

ImageFound this on the island one afternoon while exploring the island on a scooter

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ImageSeaweed farmers hard at work while the tide is low

ImageA walk through one of the plantations

ImageSeaweed busy drying so that they can sell it – very smelly

ImageThe local kids didn’t mind the camera at all and loved posing for me

ImageHere you can buy something to drink and some petrol, do not mistake it for drinking petrol.  They sell petrol in recycled coke bottles next to the street.  No petrol station or ATM on this island at all, so ensure that you have enough cash on you if you plan on going to Nusa Lembongan.

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Ubud

A lovely little town about 3 hours’ drive into Bali.  Even though there is no sea to surf at, there is plenty to do.  There is a monkey forest, rice paddies, theatres with very cultural shows and loads of romantic restaurants with artists singing and playing some local music for you to enjoy.  It is very green and tropical there with loads of mountains and forests surrounding the little town.  This little town featured in the book and movie, “Eat, Pray, Love” and you’ll also find loads of artists here sitting in their studios painting.  If you have a sense for the arts and crafts, this little town is definitely worth the visit.

ImageLovely rice paddies just outside UbudImageDucks wandering in the rice paddies looking for some water

ImageA little house in the rice paddies between the tropical trees

While in Ubud we also went to the Ubud Monkey Forest Sanctuary where you can see so many Macaques.  They will climb on you and will attempt to take your bag and belongings as they think that it’s food.  So always walk with your hands open so that they can see you do not have any food on you.  You can buy bananas as you go into the Forest to give to the monkeys, but they are very greedy and would want to take it all to themselves.  Should the monkeys climb on you, try your best not to scream or shout as that will give them a fright.  They are harmless and will not bite you.

ImageEating something which was taken from a tourist

ImageMommy Macaque with her baby

Backpacking through Vietnam

We went on a backpacking adventure through Vietnam.  All we had booked was our flights into Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), the south of Vietnam and out from Hanoi, the north of Vietnam.  We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City with our 2 backpacks and a Lonely Planet.  We travelled through Vietnam by overnight busses and made use of some internal flights as they were quite cheap.  They do have overnight trains as well which travels through the whole of Vietnam, but you have to book that quite in advance as most people prefer that mode of transport.  Travelling in Vietnam is so easy and convenient by using either their public transport (if you can stomach their driving skills) or alternatively by hiring scooters and travelling from one town to the next.  We started our trip in Ho Chi Minh City and moved through Nah Trang, Danang, Hoi An, Hue, Ninh Binh, Halong Bay and ended in Hanoi.  The Lonely Planet really helped us to plan our whole trip, all our stops, what mode of transport to use as well as where to stay.

Ho Chi Minh City

There is quite a buzz and it seems like no one sleeps in this city.  The streets are filled with scooters, street vendors and people eating next to the roads.  One thing we battled to get was cold cokes as they don’t really make use of fridges.  Also, when asking for a frozen daquiry, it will be a mixture with some blocks of ice in.  They see the ice as being frozen.

ImageThis little boy sits next to the road offers to wash peoples feet and shoes with his toothbrush, cloth and brush.

ImageAt the zoo, they have elephants, zebra’s, giraffes, crocodiles, bears and off course some monkeys.  But the one thing we did not bargain on finding was this little lizard sitting on an ashtray in the Zoo’s cafeteria with a cigarette by his mouth.

ImageElectricity, data and other wires.  All the streets of Vietnam look like this.

Nah Trang

Nah Trang is a little seaside town where we got to spend some time on the beach and at the local market.  If you have a sensitive stomach and you don’t really like the smell of fish sauce you should rather avoid the local markets. We found some lovely restaurants and bars with good food and cocktails.  This town also has a lovely evening market where you can buy toys for kids, eat some authentic Vietnamese food and have some beer as you sit by a side walk bar in the night market.

ImageVery tropical with loads of palm trees and beautiful sunsets.

ImageResidential area close to the local market.

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ImageThe kids posing for us, they just loved the camera.  As you can see there are no shoes allowed inside the houses of the Vietnamese and it needs to be left outside.

Danang

We didn’t really stop at Danang, but just did a drive through on our way to Hoi An.   But we saw some interesting things.ImageThey make use of scooters to transport and move just about everything.  You will find families of four on a scooter or something odd which they are transporting.

ImageStreet vendors selling food

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Hoi An

Hoi An is a very romantic little town and it is filled with lovely restaurants, little bakeries and there are tailors all over the town ready to make you a tailored suit, dress or coat.  If you plan on going to Hoi An, stay at least 3 or 4 nights as there are so much to do and to see.

ImageThere are loads of rivers in and around Hoi An – hire a scooter and venture through this beautiful town to see all the rivers and rice paddies.

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ImageNot too far out of Hoi An, you will find a lovely beach with loads of palm trees and some restaurants and beach resorts.  You can hire surf boards here and get some surfing lessons.

ImageTwo local old ladies making little figurines on the side of the road.

ImageGetting from the one side of the town to the other.

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ImageHue

Hue is a very historical town in Vietnam and is surrounded by temples and pagodas.  Definitely worth the visit if you are interested in getting a more historical background on Vietnam. You can go on a day tour where they take you to visit 5 Pagodas and to have a look at how they make incense.  They have incense at all the Temples and Pagodas.

ImageWashing dishes in the river

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ImageAncient tree at one of the Pagodas.

ImageStatue at one of the Pagodas

ImageOne of the temples at a Pagoda

Ninh Binh

This is a very small little town, where they hardly see any westerners.  They treated us like royalty as they waved at us walking through the little town.  They didn’t believe that we are South African as they couldn’t believe that there are white people who live in South Africa.  We were in Ninh Binh on the day of the Royal Wedding (Prince Charles and Kate) and the whole town were glued to their TV screens sitting on the side of the road or in their little shop watching the wedding.

ImageCan’t believe they have a dedicated lane only for bicycles and 2 dedicated lanes for scooters.

ImageTaking a nap during lunch.

ImageAbout 5 to 10 km’s outside of Ninh Binh there is a river which runs through rice paddies and is surrounded by limestone karsts.  You can pay a guide to take you on the river. They row with their feet, how awesomely strange is that.  ImageImage

ImageThe water market.  You need to advise your guide to turn around before you reach the end of the river unless you don’t mind being bombarded by the vendors.  They do not let you go without you buying something.

Halong Bay

With day tours and overnight tours, you can stay on board of the cruise ship; you can view all the limestone karsts at Halong Bay.

ImageThe fisherman stay on the water as seen in this fisherman’s town.  They sell whatever they’ve caught to the tourists to eat for lunch on the cruise ship.

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Hanoi

At the end of our trip, our last stop before going home was Hanoi.  Very busy city where no one sleeps.  They have loads of little street markets where you can bargain on watches, clothes and anything you can dream off.  They also have night markets with loads of restaurants and bars.

ImageCooking food on the sidewalk and selling it to locals and any tourists who would be interested in trying some traditional Vietnamese cuisine.

ImageStreet market in Hanoi